Aftertaste: Denver’s Urban Winery Rolls Out New Wines With Haute Cuisine
Guests arrive in the cellar |
Denver, Colorado, Thursday May 16, 2013.
It was like a set from an HBO miniseries, filmed inside a
working wine cellar. There were fourteen rounds set to feed about seventy wine
and food lovers, the tables displayed amongst towering racks of new and old oak
wine barrels, curtains flowing from the ceiling amongst soothing light to
soften and section the dining area, and vases full of freshly cut flowers
decorated the cellar. Guests eagerly awaited to taste Balistreri’s newest wines
from barrel, many months before they are to be bottled, offering a rare glimpse
of future wines.
The talent was abundant that night. Bravo TV’s “Top Chef”
Season Five Winner, Hosea Rosenberg, created a spectacular six-course pairing
menu with his team at Blackbelly Catering. Chef Rosenberg has remained true to
his roots after his win propelled him into culinary stardom just five years
ago. There have been no automobile endorsements, just honest hard work
transitioning from a chef-employee into a businessman and chef-farmer. In
addition to his successful catering business, Rosenberg now owns a farm and
raises Berkshire pigs. Chef Hosea’s philosophy is that less is more. He focuses
on ingredients more than techniques to bring the flavor experience to the
diner.
“We are cooking it simply and purely - making sausages,
bringing and smoking hams, etc. with the knowledge that our meats were raised
and fed well and will make the final product unbelievably good. I raise
the Berkshire pigs for three main traits: flavor, marbling, and fast
growing. Their meat is very red and almost looks like beef. There is a ton of
marbling and a great fat cap on the cuts, so it always cooks up juicy and
flavorful. It also works amazingly well for our sausage making and
charcuterie. They eat a lot and grow up quickly - which cuts down on our feed
cost. We also utilize local breweries for spent grains and a cheese
maker for the their whey. Other than that, they are fed 100% organic
grains and vegetables. They are very happy pigs!” commented Chef Hosea
Rosenberg.
The Balistreri family has worked hard building a vibrant
wine business for the past decade. Their persistence and unique winemaking
style has cultivated a terrific and devoted base of customers. A massive new
winery was constructed and completed in 2012 to cater to the strong clamor for
their wines. Demand is so strong, in fact, that it is difficult for them to age
their wines for more than a year after they have completed fermentation.
Winemaker John Balistreri likens his practice of releasing wines early to
Burgundy’s Beaujolais Nouveau, France’s popular, youthful wines. The main difference
is that in France the wines are made exclusively from Gamay and the wines
undergo a special type of fermentation known as carbonic maceration, which
gives them a very soft, fruity profile. Balistreri’s range of wines includes
Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and a
first-time Malbec, and the style is generally rich and full-bodied.
John’s charismatic and lovely daughter Julie calls herself
“The Winemaker’s Daughter”. She has her mother Birdie’s looks, but is the less
shy, colorful host of the evening. The winery expansion is also creating opportunities
for the next generation of Balistreris. Julie’s nephew, Mason, and her daughter,
Angelina, were properly introduced to guests and took part in providing
guidance and wine descriptors during one of the main courses.
The food and wine pairings were jaw-dropping. The expression,
“God is in the details”, came to mind several times throughout the evening.
Many of Chef Hosea’s courses took the better part of the day to create. They
were intricately layered with flavors and textures, using locally grown
ingredients. The pairings were so brilliant it almost felt like the wines were
created specifically to match the food.
MENU
BALISTRERI
VINEYARDS
presents
2013 Spring Barrel Tasting Dinner
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Chef Hosea Rosenberg, Founder of Blackbelly Catering
Wines Presented by Winemaker John Balistreri
presents
2013 Spring Barrel Tasting Dinner
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Chef Hosea Rosenberg, Founder of Blackbelly Catering
Wines Presented by Winemaker John Balistreri
Welcoming Wine
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Sangiovese, Talbott Vineyard, Barrel #11255
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Sangiovese, Talbott Vineyard, Barrel #11255
Wine Notes:
**** | 90pts| A great, fruit-forward, well-balanced wine!
Amuse
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Dry Muscat, Talbott Vineyard, Barrel #2044
Sweet Corn Custard Wrapped in
House Made Culatello
Wine Notes:
VT***1/2 | 86pts| An Old World-style wine.
Food:
Inventive, petite, and fills the mouth with delicious flavors.
First Course
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Roussanne, G. Parker Vineyard, Barrel #222
Spring Salad
Peas, Radish, Potato, Grilled Shrimp, Arugula
and Charred Scallion Vinaigrette
Wine Notes:
VT****| 90pts| Old World-style, elegant and subdued.
Food: If only
Mom made vegetables taste so good! A great fusion of fresh ingredients!
Second Course
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Tempranillo, Talbott Vineyard, Caspari, Barrel #11257
Hot Smoked Rainbow Trout
Fennel Sausage, Spicy Braised Greens and Blue Corn Grits
Wine Notes:
VT****1/2 | 96pts| A powerful, full-bodied red made from Colorado-grown
Tempranillo that rivals the top examples from Spain. Dark, rich in color with
ripe red fruit, tobacco and chocolate notes. Ready to drink now!
Food: Red wine
and fish? You bet! Tasting this pairing was like taking a trip down the taste
highway. Amazing scents of fennel and smokiness meet tender, perfectly cooked
trout seated on a layer of blue corn grits. Multi-orgasmic! One of the best
food and wine pairings that I have tasted in a decade.
Third Course
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Malbec, Bookcliff Vineyard, Barrel #2174
Coffee Cured Duck Breast
Duck Confit and Beet Hash, Apple Mostarda
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Malbec, Bookcliff Vineyard, Barrel #2174
Coffee Cured Duck Breast
Duck Confit and Beet Hash, Apple Mostarda
Wine Notes:
VT***1/2 |86pts| Balistreri’s first-ever Malbec is a well-balanced,
medium-bodied red wine, showing layers of fine tannins and fresh acidity. This
is a young wine that will benefit from cellaring for nine months to a year.
Food:
Incredibly enchanting, brilliantly prepared coffee crusted duck, served medium
rare, moist and juicy, pairing perfectly with the wine. The apple’s sweetness
tied all the flavors together beautifully.
Fourth Course
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Petit Verdot, Avant Vineyard, Barrel #11258
Balistreri 2012 Colorado Cabernet Sauvignon, Lovies Vineyard, Barrel #12269
Grilled Colorado Hanger Steak
Porcini Gnocchi, Local Mushrooms, Chimichurri
Wine#1 Notes:
VT***1/2 |86pts| A dark red grape variety that is commonly used for blending,
this wine has wonderful black cherry fruit flavors. This is a young wine that
will benefit from cellaring for six to nine months.
Wine#2 Notes:
VT**** |90pts| Move over Napa, this wine is proof that Colorado Cabs are world
class! The fruit is selected from Balistreri’s favorite grower, Lovie’s
Vineyard.
A tasty, big
wine that shows no signs of flabbiness!
Food: Perfectly
cooked steak fuses with rustic, local ingredients, making me feel like I am
dining in Argentina! The food paired best with Balistreri’s bold Cabernet.
Dessert
Balistreri Port Barrel #986
Salt Caramel Budino, Dried Cherry and Chocolate Crumbs
Balistreri Ice Wine
Wine#1 Notes:
VT****1/2 |96pts| Amazing port-style, fortified red wine with walls of fruit
and flavors of cherry Lifesavers.
Wine#2 Notes:
VT**** |90pts| Yummy white dessert wine with caramel and tart apple flavors.
Food: Breaking
through this layered dessert revealed a surprising finale of sweet and salty
flavors. Chef Hosea delivered a creamy, velvety blend of sweetness and textures
that paired well with both wines.
#
Everyone who attended will remember this well-executed
event fondly. For $95, it was an exceptional value for the money.
Many of the attendees ordered futures of these new wines.
Wines will be bottled and ready for pick-up by November. For information about
these new wines and upcoming events visit http://www.balistrerivineyards.com/
For information about Chef Rosenberg’s catering business
and farm visit: http://www.blackbellycatering.com/
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